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Notes
on the Soaps in the Gallery - II
Circles, Slices and Layers
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| General: You may wish to refer to the pages
on the Basic Method, Colours,
Fragrances and Moulds
for more details and information on suppliers. Clicking on the picture
will take you to the larger picture of the soap in the Gallery. |
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Both of these started off as a plain black circular soaps.
For the first I unmoulded the soap and cut it into slices putting
each alternative slice back into the mould before they could dry off
and pushing them down well to make a good seal between the soap and
the mould. I overpoured with white, made from clear base and titanium
dioxide.
For the second I started in the same way but used two cookie cutters
to remove a circle of the black. Again I replaced it in the mould
and overpoured with white.
I scented both soaps with essential oil of peppermint.
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| Tip: The temperature of the overpour
is important for this kind of soap. Too hot and it will melt the original
slices, too cool and either it will not pour evenly in between the
gaps or even worse the soap will separate when you unmould it because
the sections haven't melded together. I cannot give you an exact temperature
as so much will depend on the temperature of the soap you are pouring
over but 125-130F is a good range to aim for. Ideally the base you
are pouring will just, but only just melt the outside of the slices
you want it to cling to. |
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These were made using the same technique as the circular and striped
soaps. I used a little brown oxide and some titanium dioxide for the
marzipan colour and a round fluted cookie cutter to take out two crescent
moon shapes. Rather than waste the piece I had cut out I used it to
produce a reversed image overpouring both with a deeper colour. |
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| Soap doesn't have to be a traditional soap shape. I made
these soaps in a small square tupperware box in layers coloured with
ultramarine pink and blue. I have found that the following works best
for me to get the layers to stick together: |
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- Pour the first layer and wait until a skin forms on the top
of it. The underneath will still be liquid and warm.
- Pour the next layer very carefully over it at a medium hot
temperature, say 125 -130F. Pouring the base into the upturned
bowl of a tablespoon kept moving helps to give it a soft landing
and stops this second layer penetrating the first.
- Leave the second layer to cool a little, again until a thin
skin forms, and repeat with the final layer.
- Let the soap set up in the fridge overnight.
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Tip: When cutting a layered soap the
biggest danger is that the layers will separate. If the temperature
wasn't right in the first place nothing will stop them splitting but
in that case just remelt them and start again. To maximise your chances
however:
- Let the soap come to room temperature before you cut it, which
makes it slightly softer.
- Use a sharp knife with a thin blade.
- Leave the knife in a jug of hot water for a few minutes before
you cut the soap.
- Cut against the grain. If you cut downwards through
the first layer, then the second and so on, you put pressure on
the seam. Turn the soap on its side so that you can see all the
edges of the layers and cut and you run much less risk of them
separating.
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The lemon and orange slices are made following the same principle
as in the soaps above. You make plain soaps, cut them up, overpour,
cut again, overpour and so on. |
| A note on the colours: It is easier to produce
lemon and orange colours using mixtures of FD&C Yellow #5, D&C Yellow
#10, FD&C Yellow #6 and D&C Red #28 than with oxides but they are
inclined to bleed into the rest of the base if you embed the finished
slices. Using Yellow Oxide and Red Oxide in combination avoids bleeding
but they give a duller effect as you can see in the picture of the
orange. I suggest melting a little base and testing out the colours
first. Don't be put off this project because it seems more complicated
than the earlier ones as it uses only the same amount of base as for
the simplest soaps and if it goes wrong you won't be wasting much
more than your time.
Basic method for making one orange slice:
- Melt a small quantity of transparent base, add pigments in
the usual way, some essential oil of orange (or mandarin which
is lovely) and pour into a circular mould. Let it set up. You
now have one boring orange circle. Unmould it and set it the same
side up as it was in your mould (ie down) on your working surface.
- Assuming that your mould is two and a quarter inches in diameter
take a round cookie cutter one inch in diameter and cut out a
circle from the centre. Keep this circle to work on and save the
orange soap you cut away to melt later.
- With a sharp knife slice the one inch circle from top to bottom
three times to make six segments. Take the tiniest piece off the
pointed end of each segment.
- Replace the six segments in the circular soap mould, same side
down, so that they each have a space between them and there is
a circular space in the middle. It is fiddly to do but pushing
the segments here and there with a blunt knife will get them in
position. There will be a bigger space round the outside.
- Melt some transparent base, colour it with titanium dioxide
to make white for the pith and pour this carefully in between
the orange segments and round the outside. Don't try to make the
top level: pour too high if anything. You will trim the soap later.
- When this has set up unmould it and using a cookie cutter slightly
smaller than the diameter of the mould cut a circle away from
the outside. Keep the white for something else. Replace this soap,
good side down, in your mould.
- Re-melt the orange soap you cut off initially, add a little
more pigment to make it a bit darker, some more drops of essential
oil and pour it in the mould round the outside. Again, pour it
right to and over the top. Let it set up in the fridge.
- When you unmould the soap take a very sharp knife and stand
it in a jug of very hot water for a few minutes. Slice the ragged
end of the soap. Tip: if your mould and therefore your soap has
slightly slanting sides you may find it easier to take yet another
cookie cutter that is nearly the same size as the diameter of
the mould and trim the outside of the soap so that it will sit
vertically on your work surface and make it easier to cut.
- Use the soap as it is or embed it in a clear base.
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| Tip: if you have knife marks on the
finished soap, hold the the soap in the palm of your hand for a second,
no more, under a very hot tap and slide it onto a grid to drain and
dry off. It will look much better. |