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| This is the method that works best for me. Provided you
understand what you are trying to achieve you can devise any method
you like. Some people have success using a microwave oven on low power
or even in a conventional oven on a very low setting. This is a new
craft and there are no rules except the obvious safety rule about
being careful with hot liquids and making sure that the base does
not get too hot so that it spoils. |
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First cut the transparent glycerine soap base into
small pieces so that it will melt easily. |
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You need to melt the base. Most people use the double
boiler method but as I don't have a proper double boiler I use a Pyrex
jug and a saucepan of water. The waterbath stops the soap from heating
up unevenly. An inch or two of water goes into the saucepan. |
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Put the cut-up base in the jug, cover it with clingfilm
or the lid of your double boiler, turn the heat on, let the water
in the pan heat up until you see the beginnings of tiny bubbles on
the base, turn the heat off and leave it alone for a quarter of an
hour or so, longer for larger quantities. It helps to put a saucepan
lid over it at this stage to conserve the heat. |
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| A note on temperatures: You are aiming
to have the soapbase at between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit (50
- 60 degrees Celsius). Much lower and it will not flow, very much
higher and you run the risk of overheating spoiling the texture.
If it hasn't melted when you come back to it, heat the pan again
for a few minutes. Stirring very gently is allowed, but not too
vigorously or you will get froth.
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As the base is melting, measure out any pigments you
are going to use. For this soap I wanted some pearlescent green powder
and a tiny touch of chromium green oxide. Pour a small quantity of
the liquid base over the pigments in a little dish or cup and this
time you are allowed to stir vigorously. The base will cool rapidly
and you want to incorporate the powdery pigments as well as you can.
Pour or spoon the bit of coloured base back into the jug, replace
its clingfilm lid and leave it to melt and incorporate as before.
You can stir it gently to incorporate. |
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Just before you are ready to pour add any fragrance
you are using and combine it well. The base will be liquid now and
you will be able to incorporate the fragrance easily. It is important
that you do not have pockets of fragrance or essential oils. Pour
into the soap mould and let the soap set up. Depending on the size
and shape this will take between half an hour and several hours. It
helps to put the soap in the fridge overnight. I cover it with clingfilm
once it has cooled so that the moisture will not be drawn out of it.
Never put it in the freezer for more than a few minutes as freezing
will change its consistency. |
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| Tip: To unmould, invert the mould straight
from the fridge and leave it upside down for half an hour. In theory
the slight amount of condensation that forms between the soap and
the mould should make the soap drop out. I find that this works better
with some moulds than others. If this does not produce a result I
run the back of the mould quickly under a very hot tap which usually
does the trick. Failing that, brute force, starting with a sharp tap,
graduating to banging the mould on the kitchen counter and working
up to sharp implements, whilst not recommended, can be effective and
rather therapeutic. |
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It is a very good idea to shrinkwrap the soap or pack
it away in an airtight container if you are not going to use it immediately.
You can do an effective job of shrinkwrapping using plastic kitchen
wrap and a heat gun or even a hairdryer. Very important:
This soap has a high glycerine content and glycerine is a humectant.
In humid atmospheres it will attract water and develop beads. If the
surrounding atmosphere is dry the soap will dry out and become dull-looking.
When in use it keeps its condition beautifully but it does not behave
like the commercial soaps that you may be used to. Never leave it
to dry out and become harder as you might with a commercial soap but
keep it either in use or wrapped up. |